Nomadic wedding in Tibet (Traveling in Kham 6)

We are trudging out of the town of Garzê. What the heck causes traffic jam in such a small town, whose wide streets immediately open onto the Shanghai-Lhasa national highway? At one point, the traffic comes to a complete halt. Horsemen appear in sight, many, across the entire width of the street. “Nomads”, the bus driver says. “There’s a wedding.” We get off the bus, start taking photos of the horsemen, who have also dismounted in front of the local community center and are proudly parading their ornately equipped horses up and down for the admiring people. A few cars decorated with flowers also arrive, and their passengers enter the house.

About 30-40% of the population of historical Tibet are nomadic yak herders. In the eastern provinces that have been annexed to China since 1720, that is, in Kham (today part of Sichuan) and Amdo (now Qinghai province), where we are now, this ratio is much higher, partly because the proportion of the nomads has traditionally been higher, and partly because in the “official” Tibetan Autonomous Region the authorities are trying to forcefully settle them in housing estates that are better to control. In Kham, many nomads have city addresses, but from April to October they all live in tents on the plateau.

Then, as if by magic, the horses and cars disappear. We are getting back on the bus, but then a walking crowd appears in front of us, led by huge turbaned figures. A young woman with a tall red lampshade on her head stands out of them. “They are bringing the bride now”, the bus driver points at her. We get off again. This time I start filming, and the photos are taken by Zoli Asztalos, who infiltrates everywhere.

The procession turns into the courtyard. So far I have been filming from behind the line of spectators, but now, amids polite Chinese apologies, I push through them and sneak in. The procession goes around the prayer wheel stand in the middle of the courtyard, led by three shamans wearing sun masks. Then, as they start to climb the stairs into the main hall, confetti rains starts from above. Dancing begins in the main hall, food is offered. We are invited to stay, but we still have a long way to Dergê.