Český Krumlov, for the third time

Czech mirror with Archangel Michael
The first time when last summer, being about to visit Český Krumlov with Wang Wei, we included here the three-dimensional map of monuments of the town.

The second time when Gergő and his company went there to have some extra New Year’s Eve fun, and we prepared for them a map of inns as well as a seductive album of the photos of our own journey.

And the third time now, when we could finally take time to include the pubs explored by Gergő & Co. in the map.

Nevertheless, it is not too late either. Český Krumlov shows her most beautiful face in the autumn.

Český Krumlov, map of inns, pubs & restaurants, 2008
a) Krčma V Šatlavské ulici (Horní 157) Menu: 160 CZK soup, main course, abundant venison with knedlík (bread dumpling) and dessert. Beer index: Budvar lager 12° pint 25 CZK, there is also dark beer on tap. A cellar with a nice athmosphere, with several separate rooms, decorated medieval objects, the waiters are in period dress. A spectacle kitchen (open until 22-23), grilled meats. We were able to reserve table for 24 people in advance. Recommended.

b) Švejk Restaurant (Latrán 12 or Zámecké schody 12, because it stands at the forking of the two, M-Sun 10.30-22) The Favorit of Gergő. Two large rooms on the upper story, strip floor, heavy wooden tables, also two smaller separate rooms. Good kitchen, abundant portions. Beer index: Pilsner pint 29 CZK. Dark beer on tap. We were able to reserve tables in e-mail from Hungary for 22 persons with
à la carte dinner. Extremely gentle and patient waitresses. We were permitted to completely rearrange the furniture (and we did so). Open until 22, we remained almost until 23. Recommended ??? or ??? because:

Update: Alma writes: It was exactly Švejk where we have been screwed. A cute girl, smiling. A raised number of beers on the invoice… extra service fee included
Sic transit gloria mundi.

c) Hospoda Na louži (Kájovská 66, M-Sun 10-23) A completely preserved furnishing from 1932, porcelain beer supports. Beer index: Eggenberg pint 25 CZK. Beer snack: toast with a blue cheese-like cream. Speciality: venison with knedlik (Svičková na smetaně). Note: when we were there the waiter was rude, but the place is so attractive that we hope very much that they have substituted him.

d) Hospoda U Báby (“The Witch’s Inn”, Rooseveltova 66, M-Sat 16-23, Sun closed) One large Renaissance room with “long tables” and fireplace. Speciality: smoked hand of pork with fresh horseradish, allegedly the best in all Bohemia, just like their draught Pilsner Urquell is the best in all Krumlov. Local people come here.

e) Barbakán (Kaplická 26, M-Sun 11-24) With a great view from its terrace, and with dishes prepared on open fire. Speciality: “hermelín” (grilled camambert). Special menu for dogs. Beer: dark Kozel. The owner is a Hungarian from Slovakia, and most waiters also speak Hungarian (well, if you read the English version of this blog instead of the Hungarian one then this probably will not help you too much – but they speak fair English as well).

f) Hospoda 99 (Vezní 99, M-Sun 10-22) One room with two fireplaces, with evocative old yellow walls, beam-covered roof, wooden tables and benches. Beer index: Pilsner pint 32 CZK. On tap also Gambrinus and Eggenberg. Large terrace in summer, with great view on the town. Very kind waitress.

g) Hotel Barbora (Široká 89) Large terrace in summer. Beer index: Budvar pint 30 CZK. Intimate lighting, an amiable old waiter. They advertise themselves with traditional Czech kitchen, but we have not tried it.

h) Krumlovský mlýn (Mill of Krumlov, Široká 80, almost vis-a-vis of Barbora) The former water mill of the town, built in the 14th century, rebuilt in 1850. Fish food! Almost all local Eggenbergs are on tap. On the lower storey there is a museum of historical motorbikes (the collection of the two owners) and a small antique shop. Large terrace on the riverside. Recommended.

i) Pivovar Eggenberg (Eggenberg Brewery, Latrán 27) Restaurant and beer display room in the former cold-storage. In the brewery founded in 1560 they make seven kinds of beer: Eggenberg Kristian 8º, Egg. Světlé Výčepní 10º, Egg. Světlý Ležák 12º, Egg. Tmavý Ležák 12º (dark), Egg. Petr Vok 12º (bottled only), Egg. Svetlý Kvasnicový Ležák 12,5º (unfiltered). Speciality: tripe soup (dršťková polévka). Draught beer takeaway in the cellar, visited by the locals, the most traditional one in the town. Recommended.

j) Hotel Zlatý Anděl, Restauráce Don Julius (Námĕstí Svornosti 10-11, that is the main square) Three very well arranged rooms. A fireplace in the first one, a railway model runs around above our head, the chairs of the bar counter are made of motorbike seats, good pictures on the walls, the leaves of the painted tree are various banknotes. The second room is the continuation of the first one, a tasty combination of an old style small restaurant and a wine cellar. The separate room has the medieval houses of the main square painted on its wall around. Beer index: Budvar pint 35 CZK, there is also Eggenberger on tap. BUT they draught the beer under the line, and when we complained, the waiter (who even otherwise was not very kind) was upset. That’s a pity; this was the only reason why our company of 24 people did not have their dinner there, because, apart from this, the place is very good. We hope that the waiter has left in the meantime, so it is conditionally recommended

Update: According to Lyelena Koópturisztova’s comment to the Hungarian version of this post the waiter has already left, and now some cool guys draw off the beer, exactly as it gotta be. If this is really so, then the Julius has become one of the best places in Krumau. Great news! To celebrate it, we include here the picture of the main square where Julius is seen more or less behind the column from where you’re sitting now.

Český Krumlov, main square
k) Pension Kristinka (Dlouhá 94, M-Sun 10-22) A vaulted cellar-like room on the ground floor. You can enter either from the street or from the riverside; on this side it is like entering through a crack of a rock. Beer index: Budvar lager/dark pint 40 CZK. Thick cabbage soup served in large hollow breads, the knedlik was the best in the town, good potato dumpling (best for a beer snack). Pretzel on the tables (attention, they charge for it!) BUT the owner (?) was not really kind, and you have to take care of the bill. They wanted us to pay the equivalent of our total weekend beer consumption, but we were on the alert.
Conditionally recommended.

l) U Malého Vítka (Radiční 27, M-Sat 9-23, Sun 9-22) A nice hotel and restaurand furnished with inventive Czech taste. Speciality: hand of pork as Cyprian likes it (uzené koleno pavlouka Cypriána) and grilled flank of pork with mais (grilovaná krkovice). Dark Eggenberg. To be discovered.

m) Restaurace U hroznu (Námĕstí Svornosti 2, that is the main square, M-Sun 11-22) Here we only drank beer, but we saw that their speciality is Wiener schnitzel (fried veal cutlet) covering all the plate, with tomato, for 99 CZK.
To be discovered.

n) Restaurace Maštal (Námĕstí Svornosti 2, that is the main square) In a Renaissance house, with an intimate cellar, terraces in the courtyard. We only had a look at it, did not take anything, but it looked promising.
To be discovered.

o) Restaurace Bohemia (Kájovská 64) Formerly it was the Hospúdka U Josefa, a good local beer pub with a small, but good kitchen, beerk snacks, draught Plzeň. Now, after its transformation it is
to be discovered.

We ask everyone who took good use of this pub guide to inform us about any changes and about any news discovered by them. We will gratefully thank for it in the name of all the lovers of Český Krumlov.

Manhole cover in Český Krumlov with the arms of the town

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